March 17, 2009
We began day three of break by exploring another one of DC’s neighborhoods. Historic U Street is the Harlem of DC. It was the cultural epicenter of African-American nightlife, which continues to flourish today. Famous musicians like Duke Ellington played in many of the jazz venues that still line the streets, and visitors to U Street can see hints of this history infused into the current landscape.
A trip to U Street is incomplete without a stop at Ben’s Chili Bowl, a Washington hotspot that opened in 1958. Now an official cultural landmark, Ben’s serves up delicious hotdogs, burgers, and fries on a no frills menu that of course includes its famous chili. Ben’s chili is thick, spicy and delicious. I would recommend to first timers the famous Ben’s Dog: a jumbo beef dog with mustard, onions, and chili. Yum. At mealtime, diners line up out the door to get a taste of Ben’s. Cash only, the sign on the register indicates who can eat for free: Bill Cosby who used to singly claim this honor, but now shares company with the Obama Family.
U Street is one of my favorite places in DC. From the great jazz to its variety of ethnic eateries, it is a great place to spend a relaxing afternoon or a lively evening. Unfortunately the neighborhood is facing rapid gentrification and the original residents who descended from this area are slowly being forced out as Starbucks and luxury apartments move in. However it’s hard to break the spirit of this neighborhood. When I did a photo essay of U Street for a photography class last semester, I met so many friendly people on the street who eagerly asked me to take their picture. Many gave me suggestions of places and people to photograph. The residents take tremendous pride in the area and work very hard to preserve the authenticity of the place.
After our lunch at Ben’s, Josh and I headed to our next stop of the day, which was like taking a trip into a Dan Brown novel. We first discovered this next landmark last spring while we were taking a walk through the residential brownstones between U Street and Dupont Circle. As we rounded the corner of one block, appearing out of nowhere was this immense structure with towering columns and looming statues flanking the steps. We were astounded by the enormity of this building, which we soon discovered to be the House of the Temple headquarters of the Scottish Rite of Freemasonry. The temple was closed but we vowed to come back and learn what this place was all about.
Almost a year later, we finally made our return to the Scottish Rite Temple. We entered into the main lobby, which is a beautiful space supported by green marble columns and hand-painted ceilings. As I signed in for our tour at the front desk, I caught a glimpse of the sheet on the tour guide’s desk: a list of names and phone numbers under the heading, “Phone Extensions for the Supreme Chancellors”. What were we getting ourselves into? Although our tour would reveal the mysteries of the temple and Freemasonry, I am still baffled by the whole other world hiding in this residential neighborhood.
Beginning the tour, our guide, a graduate student in anthropology at GW not a Freemason, told us a little about Freemasonry. Freemasonry is an international fraternity with 1.7 million members worldwide. Despite the appearance of this temple, it is not a secret society. In fact, Freemasons perform charity work in many public spheres. When a Freemason completes the first three degrees of symbolic masonry, they may choose to continue their education in the tradition of one of two branches— the Scottish Rite branch or the York branch. Of the Scottish Rite branch, this headquarters is the largest in the United States and is the grandmother of all Scottish Rite Temples in the world. The highest degree of masonry one can attain is the 32nd degree with a special 33rd degree bestowed upon those masons who have proven outstanding work in the Rite or in public life.
Next our tour took us to the Temple Room, the main meeting space for all official Scottish Rite gatherings. It’s hard to describe the beauty and detail of this room. Every design carried significance. In the middle of the room was an altar because masons believe religion (any religion) should be center in one’s life. The glass windows featured serpents at the bottom of clouded glass that became increasingly translucent towards the top. The window design was to signify greater clarity that comes with greater spirituality and faith. The grandness of the room was breathtaking with every element, the desks, tile floor, columns, and curtains contributing to the room’s majestic ambiance.
Another point on the tour took us to a hall of portraits where we saw paintings of famous 33 degree masons. Some of these honorary members include Senator John Glenn, John Philip Sousa, Arnold Palmer, Bob Dole, Roy Rodgers, and Douglas MacArthur. Fourteen US Presidents have been masons from George Washington to Gerald Ford. Even former GW President Stephen Joel Trachtenburg’s portrait was hanging on the wall. Not only did he receive the high honors of the 33 degree, but he was also elected as a Grand Chancellor. Why am I not surprised?
A highlight of the tour was a complete artifact room honoring Freemason, Burl Ives. A dedicated Freemason, after his death Ives’ wife donated a treasure trove of memorabilia to the Scottish Rite. We perused items from hit records to Boy Scout badges while Ives’ hit songs played in the background. My favorite item was a figurine of the snowman claymation character that Ives provided the voice for in the Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer holiday film.
We saw so many incredible rooms, artifacts, paintings, and architecture in the temple—far too much to describe them all on this page. Check out my photos to see the temple library, chancellor’s room, and other amazing details of the temple. Despite having the feel of a “secret society” the Temple is willing and eager to open its doors to the public. I was able to take pictures in every room and our guide provided lighthearted commentary on Freemasonry and its members. A visit to the Scottish Rite Temple should be included in every trip to DC.
After our Scottish Rite tour we headed to Duffy’s Irish Pub to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day. Duffy’s is a dive bar in U Street but it’s a great place to find good deals, watch the game, or scope out extra tickets for whatever concert is playing at the 9:30 Club down the street. For St. Patties we were entertained by Irish step dancers who were later going to be performing at the Kennedy Center and received all kinds of free, green “flair”. Duffy’s had a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, making it a place I’d definitely visit again. Great end to a great day.
Thanks for being patient while I catch up on posts! Stay tuned for jazz, tapas, and a Capitol tour.
Photos: Go DC, Day 3
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